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Bahrain

Remembering the Pearl Monument in Bahrain

My last post was at the beginning of the Bahraini protests. Much has transpired since then, namely the conversion of the protests from reform to demanding the removal of the rulers, and the subsequent suppression of the protests through the violent use of force. Saudi troops/tanks/humvees have rolled into Manama and “taken care of matters.” People have been killed (protestors and expats who got caught in the cross-hairs of rage); the Pearl Monument (where the protestors collected) is reported to have been destroyed; a state of emergency has been declared for the next three months.

The truth of the oppression of the Shia population can no longer be denied or ignored by those who want to unequivocally support the Sunni rulers. What makes for even more messy global politics is that Shaikh Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa is not considered a lunatic, unlike the Libyan Gaddafi!  2011 will be the year when the State Department’s Human Rights Report will need major rewrites and careful editing!

For those of you who never saw it, and for those of you who support the protestors, a photo of the monument is attached. This picture was taken in 2008.

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MENA on Fire: the Bahraini Story

While the protests in Tunisia, Egypt, Yemen, Algeria, Libya and Iran are not a surprise, the ones in Bahrain definitely are. Not because the population is not unhappy, (the majority shia are extremely oppressed by the minority sunni ruling class), but because in this constitutional monarchy bordering Saudi Arabia, it is rare that they were not squashed on Day 1. When the current ruler came to power some years ago, he introduced some reforms; however the old guard (his uncles etc) have been extremely resistant to change. As in most cases, it is unfortunately only a matter of time before the new guard becomes the old guard, and reform for the oppressed masses is forgotten.

What distinguishes protests in Bahrain from protests in countries like Tunisia, Egypt and Yemen is the legitimacy of the ruler. In the latter countries, the people are/were demanding that their rightful constitution be restored, and the rulers who had usurped power for decades be removed. In Bahrain, the legality of the form of governance (constitutional monarchy) is not in dispute, the issue is reform for the people. One other wrinkle in this mess is that neighboring salafi/wahabi Saudi Arabia will not be “open” to having a strong Shia influence in Bahraini politics.

The army is already rolling into Pearl Square on day 3 of protests- let’s see which way the wind will blow for this small island country.

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Alcohol in Saudi Arabia- locals

Alcohol is officially banned in Saudi Arabia- for both locals and expats (unlike other Muslim majority countries where alcohol is allowed for expats e.g. Pakistan or countries where alcohol is served in hotels openly available e.g. Egypt, Bahrain, Dubai etc).  The reality on the ground is different and depends on socio-economic status. The vast majority within the country do not drink but those that do always find a way (outside the country is a whole different story).

The Commission for the Prevention of Vice and the Promotion of Virtue (CPVPV) conducts many raids to confiscate alcohol with the target being the working class. Every few days there are reports of locally produced “araq” factories being discovered and raided. The dealers and distributers are always jailed.

The wealthier upper middle and upper class Saudis (including royals) regularly import their alcohol. It is not uncommon to see empty Vodka bottles strewn in the side streets off Tahlia St (main food street) in Riyadh on the weekends. These individuals tend to be above the law based on “wasta” (connections) and “rishwa” (bribery)- basically anything goes.

So what does the average middle class Saudi do? He less likely to brew his own alcohol and he doesn’t have the means to be above the law; his simple solution is going to Bahrain to drink! The Causeway that connects the Kingdom to Bahrain is jam packed on the weekends as Saudis (and expats) rush to their “local Vegas”. The bars are crowded with Saudis “legally” getting drunk; the local traffic is horrible as inebriated youth drive the streets.  At the end of the weekend the locals return to their normal lives, some still drunk, many hung over- all waiting for the next weekend.

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