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Remembering the Pearl Monument in Bahrain

My last post was at the beginning of the Bahraini protests. Much has transpired since then, namely the conversion of the protests from reform to demanding the removal of the rulers, and the subsequent suppression of the protests through the violent use of force. Saudi troops/tanks/humvees have rolled into Manama and “taken care of matters.” People have been killed (protestors and expats who got caught in the cross-hairs of rage); the Pearl Monument (where the protestors collected) is reported to have been destroyed; a state of emergency has been declared for the next three months.

The truth of the oppression of the Shia population can no longer be denied or ignored by those who want to unequivocally support the Sunni rulers. What makes for even more messy global politics is that Shaikh Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa is not considered a lunatic, unlike the Libyan Gaddafi!  2011 will be the year when the State Department’s Human Rights Report will need major rewrites and careful editing!

For those of you who never saw it, and for those of you who support the protestors, a photo of the monument is attached. This picture was taken in 2008.

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MENA on Fire: the Bahraini Story

While the protests in Tunisia, Egypt, Yemen, Algeria, Libya and Iran are not a surprise, the ones in Bahrain definitely are. Not because the population is not unhappy, (the majority shia are extremely oppressed by the minority sunni ruling class), but because in this constitutional monarchy bordering Saudi Arabia, it is rare that they were not squashed on Day 1. When the current ruler came to power some years ago, he introduced some reforms; however the old guard (his uncles etc) have been extremely resistant to change. As in most cases, it is unfortunately only a matter of time before the new guard becomes the old guard, and reform for the oppressed masses is forgotten.

What distinguishes protests in Bahrain from protests in countries like Tunisia, Egypt and Yemen is the legitimacy of the ruler. In the latter countries, the people are/were demanding that their rightful constitution be restored, and the rulers who had usurped power for decades be removed. In Bahrain, the legality of the form of governance (constitutional monarchy) is not in dispute, the issue is reform for the people. One other wrinkle in this mess is that neighboring salafi/wahabi Saudi Arabia will not be “open” to having a strong Shia influence in Bahraini politics.

The army is already rolling into Pearl Square on day 3 of protests- let’s see which way the wind will blow for this small island country.

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Should Liberty be the Price of Safety in Saudi Arabia?

Saudi Arabia takes national security very seriously. In 2003, after Al-Qaeda affiliates launched three successful attacks on expatriate compounds and several failed ones on Saudi government facilities, the country cracked down very hard on militants, suspected militants, political activists, dissidents, supporters and basically anyone it wanted to.

The Human Rights Watch recently issued a report claiming that 9000 people were detained, of which 2000-4000 are still in jail. Held without trial, sent to rehabilitation camps and in a few cases actually charged and tried in secret, the process has been mostly opaque and violated both Saudi law and also international law. 991 people had been indicted by October 2008 and a further 323 by July 2009. Sentences ranged from a few months to 30 years for those that were tried.

What is known through anecdotes is that soon after the 2003 attacks there were huge crackdowns on faculty at various Islamic universities in the Kingdom. Professors and students disappeared and the curriculum/language has changed to include “moderation”. Officially, “there is no place for extremism in Islamic University.” Additionally, all imams in mosques around the country have to be Saudi and approved by the government; they are monitored to ensure that they are not teaching hatred (some 3200 have been removed over the past 5 years).

Do national security concerns give nations the right to violate human rights? Clearly Saudi Arabia and USA are birds of a feather in this regard (let us not forget Guantanamo Bay). It is interesting that the American founding fathers certainly did not think so:

"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety."
-Benjamin Franklin, "Pennsylvania Assembly: Reply to the Governor", November 11, 1755

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Myanmar Suu Kyi Verdict Announced

The Than Shwe junta announced it’s verdict against Aung San Suu Kyi today- she has been sentenced to another 18 months of house arrest. Better than the 3 years jail sentence that was originally planned, it is still more than she deserves. The sentence will ensure that she is unable to participate in the May 2010 elections that she would probably have won.

The international community is up in arms over the verdict and the UN is reviewing a condemnation statement. International condemnation has not made any difference to Myanmar in the past; it is unlikely that much will change now. A poor nation with no major resources to offer to the world, no country cares enough about human rights to actually take more forceful action against Myanmar.  Indeed not every country is even willing to openly condemn the sham trial- China and India have noticeably stayed silent on the issue.

The international political arena is full of double standards and inconvenient facts. Think of how many political prisoners exist in countries like Saudi Arabia and Israel- now think how much international condemnation or press coverage they are receiving.

In case you were wondering what happened to John Yettaw, the man who caused Suu Kyi to end up in this situation, he has received a seven year prison sentence which includes four years of hard labor.

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Baboons in Saudi Arabia

The region between Makkah and Madinah has many wild baboons along the highways. No longer scared of people, they wait to be fed by cars and trucks that stop for them. It’s fascinating to watch them- no matter how many times you see them you still want to stop and watch again.

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Look closely at the left hand corner- the baboon is chasing the other over food

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There are some great pictures at NidalM’s blog

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Alcohol in Saudi Arabia- expats

When it comes to alcohol the worst offenders in the Kingdom are often from the expatriate community. 9 out of 10 news reports about raids on producers, suppliers and distributors includes at least one, if not more, expats within the illegal alcohol supply chain.

There are the expats who run factories to produce the local brew called “araq”. There are the dealers who are middlemen between local & imported drinks and the buyers. Often from the working class, they are jailed or deported when they are caught by the Commission for the Prevention of Vice and Promotion of Virtue (CPVPV).

MANY Western expats, who mostly live inside guarded compounds, are involved by degrees in importing/buying/selling alcohol and brewing their own moonshine for consumption. The importers (from Bahrain and UAE) are able to make a huge profit from selling the illegal alcohol. These dealers are rarely caught while crossing the border and fewer still are deported if they are detained at customs. The ones who brew their own spirits tend to do so in smaller quantities for personal consumption (rather than for sale) and never get caught as they keep it contained within the compounds. There are parties and happy hours (even at embassies) where everything is available.

What is odd however is the attitude several Western expats have towards alcohol consumption even though they know it is illegal. Many are smug that they are able to break the rules of the country without getting caught; they consider it their right to indulge in their own whims/desires rather than respect the religion and cultural sensibilities of their hosts. As they lament the laws of the Kingdom and the unruly traffic (“Saudi roads are crazy/death traps. I wish the Saudis would follow traffic rules”) they seem to forget that they are also violating the law!

Everyone is selective about which laws they choose to follow and which ones they choose to violate. And thus the pot calls the kettle black, or as the Arabic saying goes, “the camel cannot see the crookedness of its own neck.”

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Alcohol in Saudi Arabia- locals

Alcohol is officially banned in Saudi Arabia- for both locals and expats (unlike other Muslim majority countries where alcohol is allowed for expats e.g. Pakistan or countries where alcohol is served in hotels openly available e.g. Egypt, Bahrain, Dubai etc).  The reality on the ground is different and depends on socio-economic status. The vast majority within the country do not drink but those that do always find a way (outside the country is a whole different story).

The Commission for the Prevention of Vice and the Promotion of Virtue (CPVPV) conducts many raids to confiscate alcohol with the target being the working class. Every few days there are reports of locally produced “araq” factories being discovered and raided. The dealers and distributers are always jailed.

The wealthier upper middle and upper class Saudis (including royals) regularly import their alcohol. It is not uncommon to see empty Vodka bottles strewn in the side streets off Tahlia St (main food street) in Riyadh on the weekends. These individuals tend to be above the law based on “wasta” (connections) and “rishwa” (bribery)- basically anything goes.

So what does the average middle class Saudi do? He less likely to brew his own alcohol and he doesn’t have the means to be above the law; his simple solution is going to Bahrain to drink! The Causeway that connects the Kingdom to Bahrain is jam packed on the weekends as Saudis (and expats) rush to their “local Vegas”. The bars are crowded with Saudis “legally” getting drunk; the local traffic is horrible as inebriated youth drive the streets.  At the end of the weekend the locals return to their normal lives, some still drunk, many hung over- all waiting for the next weekend.

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Pictures of Pigs to be Removed from Saudi Textbooks

The Saudi Ministry of Education recently ordered the removal of pictures of pigs, music instruments and anything else that might be considered “un-Islamic” from English language text books for private schools.

The rationale for removing the images of pigs as being un-Islamic is not unusual in many Muslim-majority countries however it deserves a second thought. Without a doubt Islam does not permit eating pigs. It also does not allow eating falcons, eagles, bears, dogs, cats, monkeys and a whole host of other animals that are sometimes eaten in other cultures. Will all such animal images also be banned?

The religious prohibition against eating an animal does not make the animal inherently “un-Islamic”. Indeed one has to wonder how any of God’s Creation can be considered un-Islamic?  Viewing of animals is not banned in the religion (whether one is allowed to eat them or not) so why remove their images from books?

Children in Saudi Arabia will not accidently come across a pig and decide to eat it; they are much more likely to come across stray cats!  What is most important in the long run is to teach children what is allowed, what is not allowed and why. Teach them how religious law does not allow eating omnivores; how pigs  fall in the category of prohibited animals and how their anatomy prevents Islamically correct slaughter. It is only when they learn the “why” that they will be less tempted to try pork products in the restaurants of neighboring Bahrain. Erasing a picture will not convey the correct message.

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Growing Pains of Reform in Saudi Arabia

Reform is a slow process that takes years and sometimes generations. The ongoing tussle between the public and the Commission for the Promotion of Virtue and the Prevention of Vice (Hayya) is one of the expected growing pains of reform in Saudi Arabia. A recent example was the Riyadh Book Fair, held during the past two weeks.

The event has received much publicity, both local and international. Other than the usual censorship issues, a lot of the attention has been criticism, aimed at an incident where two male authors were harassed by the Hayya for wanting to get the signature of a female author.

As in previous years the Hayya were out in full force and, ignoring their PR booth, were asserting their role as guardians of public morality. What is interesting to note is that the Hayya appear to have become more relaxed over time. This year saw most hours dedicated to family entrance and very little for gender segregated ones. Additionally it was the first time that women were allowed to work at the fair.

Below are excerpts from news reports about Hayya action in previous years and also links to other bloggers who wrote about the 2009 Riyadh Book Fair.

2006 Arab News: Lessons of Riyadh Book Fair

According to press reports, members and volunteers of the Commission for the Prevention of Vice and Promotion of Virtue were in force everywhere. In the family days, where single men are not allowed, they were the exception. Carrying sticks and wielding religious authority, they went around telling women to cover their faces, wear “abayas” (black cloak) over their heads in one piece, rather than two — head scarf and body cover. In some instances, they told salesmen in bookstands not to smile or joke when talking to women. A man holding the hand of his half-blind wife was told not to show affection in public.

2009 Arab News: Frustrating Experience

The book fair, which ends on Friday, has been marked with controversy once again — with liberal and literary minded people complaining of harassment by the commission. For their part, religious authorities have complained, not just about the mingling of men and women at the fair or how women are dressed, but also about how they claim their voices are being quelled by the visitors.

In one of the more highly publicized incidents at the fair, Saudi writer Halemah Mozaffar was verbally accosted by men who identified themselves as commission members and accused her of immorality for not having her face covered and for signing books given to her by men — she had signed the books as the men had asked her to do so out of admiration for her work.

What is essential for reform is the continuation of raised voices about these controversial topics, with support and encouragement from the media. With Commission members no longer carrying sticks and two piece abayas being quite common, it should be interesting to see what happens at the 2009 Janadriyah festival which is allowing family days for the first time.

Writings by other bloggers on the Riyadh Book Fair 2009:

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Images of Riyadh: MAJOR Dust Storm

This dust storm came super fast. The sky turned dark and yellow within a matter of minutes. Here is the view of Faisaliyah Tower:

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The last dust storm:

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The normal view:

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Here is a view of Olaya Street:

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